What's so important about water pressure anyway?

Home buyers are often concerned about the water pressure at a home they plan to purchase. On the other hand, to complicate matters, it seems that no two home buyers agree on what is satisfactory water pressure. Realizing that, home inspectors try to provide their clients with a water pressure reading that they can analyze and evaluate on their own.

Home buyers often ask the home inspector about the water pressure at a prospective property. Is it good? Is it bad? Or my favorite, “The water pressure seems really low in the master bathroom upstairs…” Unfortunately, water pressure is pretty much subjective. What one person thinks is great pressure could be a mere trickle to another person. Those people who are used to obtaining their water from private wells are often less critical of water pressure than those individuals who are accustomed to getting water from sophisticated municipal water systems. Water pressure also can become a critical issue with so many contemporary American homes having relatively large five-piece master bathrooms, often on a second or third floor which further complicates the water pressure issue.

Since water pressure is largely subjective, the best thing to do is to measure it so you can decipher and evaluate the numbers themselves. There is a device known as a water pressure gauge. This portable meter screws onto an outside hose bibb, or inside at the laundry area, and gives a homeowner, a plumber or a home inspector an accurate pressure reading of the plumbing distribution system at a given property. Normal water pressure is in the range of 60 to 80 pounds per square inch (PSI) with an additional common range for rural properties (wells) running between 40 to 60 pounds per square inch (PSI). This water pressure gauge can yield a pretty accurate reading although, during the day, it could change a bit depending on the number of fixtures that are being operated and other variations that affect overall water pressure. My practice is to measure the water pressure when none of the fixtures are being operated (typically one of the first things I do at a property before anyone shows up for the inspection).

Water pressure at or below 40 PSI, while not uncommon to find, usually means there is not much pressure to spare if more than one fixture or appliance is running at a time; for example, trying to shower while the dishwasher is running could be an ordeal. Water pressure above 80 PSI is not good for household appliances -- washing machines, dishwashers, and hot water heaters. Consistently high water pressure can damage or significantly shorten the design life of these and other household appliances. The more common victims of high water pressure are washing machine hoses and water inlet valves on dishwashers and washing machines. Now if your water pressure is too high to start with, say 110 PSI and someone slams a valve closed quickly, the water hammer can exceed 200 psi, which is more than enough to burst conventional distribution piping. I you are buying a home, your home inspector should check and report the water pressure for you (check your inspection report to make sure). If, on the other hand, you are merely a curious consumer who wants to investigate this matter by yourself, an accurate but inexpensive water pressure gauge can be purchased at almost any hardware store.

Criteria in hiring a quality home inspector

I recently decided to start this blog in an attempt to educate my potential client base and contribute to the local real estate profession.  These being my first post, please feel free to make comments or advice about how I can better achieve my objective.

Over the past two years a substantial percentage of my competition in the Aurora, Colorado area has dropped out of this profession for one reason or another.  Recently I have noticed a higher number of price shoppers and would like to take a few minutes to address why price shouldn't necessarily be the only criteria for hiring a professional home inspector. 

Inevitably a few times a month I have a scheduled inspection all ready to go and the client calls back to say that found a cheaper inspector/inspection and they want to cancel their appointment.  In an attempt to educate a client on the fly, here are the questions I asked these prospective clients, many of which the other home inspectors simply don't offer. (Remember, these are specific to my area, and may not apply to other states)

1. Does the home inspector inspect full-time?

Though this seems like a trivial question, it is quite important.  Those who inspect full-time have a vested interest in providing the best home inspection and customer service, since it's their only source of income.  It also shows that they have built a solid customer base, which 9 times out of 10 is due to superior service.

2. Does the home inspector carry Error and Omissions (E&O) insurance and General Commercial Liability (GCL) insurance?

No one is perfect, plain and simple.  E&O insurance covers the buyer and home inspector alike and GCL covers any damage or injuries that might result by the home inspector's actions on-site. Though I've had my $1,000,000 insurance policy since 2005, I have never had to use it, but my clients have that peace of mind.

3. Is the home inspector a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) or the National Association of Home Inspectors (NAHI)?

Though it's not a guarantee, these associations at least weed-out most of the lower-quality inspectors by having minimum requirements and proctored exams that must be passed. Since there is no licensing for home inspectors in Colorado, these associations are all the more critical since anyone can call them self a home inspector.  Literally if you decide to become a home inspector you can start inspecting homes TOMORROW!  The associations lay out minimum standards a home inspector must follow.

Also, there is one organization in particular that offers membership to inspectors based on a few simple online non-proctored exams.  I was offered membership when I first became an inspector and never even sent them a check.  I was a full member for more than a year before they jettisoned my name and all I ever did for this membership was take a simple 20 question online test.  Just be careful and ask your inspector which organization he or she belongs too. 

4. How long does the home inspector usually stay on-site?

Our home inspections usually last about 3 hours with another 30 minutes to put the pictures in the laptop, print out the report and review it on-site.  I take the time to answer any questions you might have and then give you a copy of the report in a professional binder with an email version to follow the evening of the inspection.  I also include a ZIP version of all of the original inspection photos.  Ultimately the answer to this question is your personal preference as a consumer.

5. How long has the home inspector been in business and how many home inspections have they performed?

The minimum requirement for this is whatever you desire. I have been in business since 2005 and I am the chief cook and bottle washer.  Simply put, it is me you talk to on the phone and me that completes your inspection.  I have also completed well over 1,000 home inspections since I first started in 2005.  Remember our home inspections are the 3-hour home inspections and not the common 45-minute to 1-hour home inspections with some other competitors.

6. How long does it take to receive the home inspection report?

Once again, this is your personal preference.  With Pillar To Post, everything is done on-site.  The report can also be printed out for your agent and can be emailed that evening at no additional cost.

7. Does the home inspector walk on roofs and enter attics and crawlspaces as long as it's safe to do so?

Yes, there are plenty of home inspectors who do not walk on roofs or enter attics or crawlspaces, there's simply not enough time if the home inspector is only spending an hour on-site. If you browse through my other blogs, you can view the numerous items we see while inspecting these areas. Many items can only be seen by actually walking the roof or entering the attic or crawlspace. It is a must in my opinion. 

I’ll be honest here as well; crawlspaces, attics and roof structures are VERY hard to hide deficiencies or other problems.  Simply put if a seller is interested in hiding something they very rarely, in my experience, take the time or effort to do it in these restricted spaces. 

8. Does the home inspector carry a moisture meter, water pressure gauge, ladders, infrared thermometer, flashlight, circuit analyzer, mirrors, screwdriver and digital camera (just to name a few)?

These are just a sample of the tools and are minimum requirements in my opinion.  Like they say, you need the right tools to do the right job.

Ultimately, though a good home inspection might cost you a little more up-front, you will usually see the savings in items to possibly be requested for repair or at least being able to anticipate costs for items that need repair.  If your home inspector doesn't catch the problems then you don't know they need to be fixed.

In summary, like most things in life... you get what you pay for.  I'm not saying my list is the perfect list or is the only set of qualifications, but in my experience they are very important.  Please, please, please... even if you don't use our home inspection services, at least make sure you interview your home inspector and know his or her qualifications and exactly what they are offering.